Makalu Expedition

Trip Details
  • Duration: 55 Days
  • Destination: Nepal
  • Grade: Moderate

Was first climbed by a French party in 1955. The peak was first mapped and photographed from the Tibetan side by the 1921 British Everest reconnaissance. Hillary and Shipton photographed mount Makalu on the 1951 Everest reconnaissance. Hillary and others approached the peak a year later after the failure of their mount Cho Oyu expedition.

The first attempt on mount Makalu was in 1954 by a US team, mostly from California , who trekked all the way from the Indian border near Biratnagar. At the same time a British team approached the mountain, but this expedition was abandoned when Hillary became seriously ill and had to be evacuated.

In the autumn of 1954 a French team attempted the peak. In the following spring, successfully ascents were made by three teams of French climbers on successive days.

The Japanese climbed mount Makalu in 1970, another French team climbed it in 1971 and a Yugoslav expedition reached the summit in 1975.

Makalu West Face

It is very adventurous route to climb because it is a little bit dangerous as well. The 5 attempts were made before climbing this Mount Makalu Mountain; then only it was succeeded in the final.

The West Face was successfully scaled in 1997. The Russian expedition had taken the route of this West Face of mount Makalu, leaded by Sergey Efimov and climbed the top on 21st of May via the most difficult route. The last part of the route had gone on Parago ridge. Alexei Bolotov, Yuri Ermachek, Dmitri Pavlenko, Igor Bugachevski and Nikolai Jiline had climbed on the top of mount Makalu at this time For this ascent they were awarded the "Gold ice-axe".

The routes are of 4 parts:

The bottom part starts from the base of the West Face at 5,800 meters and climbs to the hanging ice-fall at 6,100 meters to the right part of the ice-fall. The second part extends from the plateau above the ice-fall along 35 to 45 degree elevation's rock up to the 6,500 meters high. The next section is an ice-rock wall, 50 to 55 degrees steep & that extends to 7,400 meters height. The last final section begins 70 to 75 degree elevation's rock pillar, which leads to the west ridge at 8,000 meters height till to the top of the summit.

Ropes are typically fixed from 5800m to 6100m and from 6500 m to 7500m. Camps established by the Russian Team were at the following locations.

The French Route on the West Pillar is an aesthetically stunning line that has been seldom attempted. It is an exceedingly difficult, a very steep pillar that was first successfully ascended in 1971. The crux of the line comes at approximately 7,600m in the area of the Seignior Wall.

The first US team to summit was in 1980, they scaled via this West Pillar Route. The team was made up of Jim States, John Roskelley, Kim Momb and Chris Kopczynski. They topped on the summit without the use of oxygen or Sherpa support.

Outline Itinerary

  • Day 01: Arrival Kathmand & Trasfer to hotel
  • Day 02: Prepare for expedition
  • Day 03: Briefing in Ministry of tourism
  • Day 04: Fly to Tumlingtar - camping
  • Day 05: Tumlingtar - Kuwapani
  • Day 06: Kuwapani - Chichila
  • Day 07: Chichila - Num
  • Day 08: Num- Seduwa
  • Day 09: Seduwa - Tashigaun
  • Day 10: Tashigaun - Khongma La (Danda)
  • Day 11: Khongmadanda - Mumfuk
  • Day 12: Mumfuk -Yangle Kharak
  • Day 13: Yangle Khark -Merak
  • Day 14: Merak -Sersung (half day rest) for acclimatize
  • Day 15: Sersung - Makalu Base camp
  • Day 16: Climbing Period for Makalu 8463m.
  • Day 48: Makalu BC - Mumbuck
  • Day 49: Mumbuck - Khongma La (Danda)
  • Day 50: Khongma La - Seduwa
  • Day 51: Seduwa - Chichila
  • Day 52: Chichila - Tumlingtar
  • Day 53: Tumlingtar - Kathmandu by flight
  • Day 54: Kathmandu
  • Day 55: Final Departure

What’s Included

  • 4 nights accommodation in Kathmandu with bed & Breakfast- hotel 3 star.
  • Permit fee of Makalu 1-8463m Expedition
  • Food for Trekking and Expedition period for Makalu
  • Staff: Base camp Guide , Cook, Cook helper
  • Porter from Tumlingtar to Base camp & Base camp to Tumlingtar
  • Kathmandu -Tumlingtar - Kathmandu flights with Cargo 50 KG Per member
  • Equipment allowance, daily allowance for Liaison officer, expedition crew
  • Insurance for Nepalese expedition crew.
  • 1 tent for 1 person for Base camp of Makalu
  • Mat, dining tent, Toilet tent, Mess tent, Store tent, Table and chairs trekking for the expedition
  • Local transportation in Kathmandu (Airport-hotel-airport)
  • Emergency Oxygen -Mask and regulator
  • Satellite phone (Pay calls)
  • Fare Well dinner

What’s not Included

  • PERSONAL equipment for climbing & trekking
  • Personal & medical Insurance of expedition
  • Climbing food, Gas & stove above Base camp
  • Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu
  • Emergency Rescue evacuation by helicopter in case needed
  • Walkie Talkie permit & Satellite phone permit
  • Oxygen & Mask -regulator
  • Personal expenses
  • Bar Bills & beverage
  • Garbage Deposit USD 3000.00 (Sharing of the total person) and Deposit fee will be not refunded if the clients

Detail Itinerary

  • Day 01Arrival Kathmand & Trasfer to hotel
  • Day 02Prepare for expedition
  • Day 03Briefing in Ministry of tourism
  • Day 04Fly to Tumlingtar - camping
  • Day 05Tumlingtar - Kuwapani
  • Day 06Kuwapani - Chichila
  • Day 07Chichila - Num
  • Day 08Num- Seduwa
  • Day 09Seduwa - Tashigaun
  • Day 10Tashigaun - Khongma La (Danda)
  • Day 11Khongmadanda - Mumfuk
  • Day 12Mumfuk -Yangle Kharak
  • Day 13Yangle Khark -Merak
  • Day 14Merak -Sersung (half day rest) for acclimatize
  • Day 15Sersung - Makalu Base camp
  • Day 16 Climbing Period for Makalu 8463m.
  • Day 48Makalu BC - Mumbuck
  • Day 49Mumbuck - Khongma La (Danda)
  • Day 50Khongma La - Seduwa
  • Day 51Seduwa - Chichila
  • Day 52Chichila - Tumlingtar
  • Day 53Tumlingtar - Kathmandu by flight
  • Day 54Kathmandu
  • Day 55Final Departure

Departure Dates

Start Date End Date Cost Status Booking
28 August, 2017 21 October, 2017 Contact Us Available Book Now
07 September, 2017 31 October, 2017 Contact Us Available Book Now
14 September, 2017 07 November, 2017 Contact Us Available Book Now
21 September, 2017 14 November, 2017 Contact Us Available Book Now
28 September, 2017 21 November, 2017 Contact Us Available Book Now
07 October, 2017 30 November, 2017 Contact Us Available Book Now
14 October, 2017 07 December, 2017 Contact Us Available Book Now
21 October, 2017 14 December, 2017 Contact Us Available Book Now
28 October, 2017 21 December, 2017 Contact Us Available Book Now
07 November, 2017 31 December, 2017 Contact Us Available Book Now
14 November, 2017 07 January, 2018 Contact Us Available Book Now
21 November, 2017 14 January, 2018 Contact Us Available Book Now
28 November, 2017 21 January, 2018 Contact Us Available Book Now
07 December, 2017 30 January, 2018 Contact Us Available Book Now
14 December, 2017 06 February, 2018 Contact Us Available Book Now
21 December, 2017 13 February, 2018 Contact Us Available Book Now
28 December, 2017 20 February, 2018 Contact Us Available Book Now
14 February, 2018 09 April, 2018 Contact Us Available Book Now
28 February, 2018 23 April, 2018 Contact Us Available Book Now
07 March, 2018 30 April, 2018 Contact Us Available Book Now
14 March, 2018 07 May, 2018 Contact Us Available Book Now
21 March, 2018 14 May, 2018 Contact Us Available Book Now
28 March, 2018 21 May, 2018 Contact Us Available Book Now
07 April, 2018 31 May, 2018 Contact Us Available Book Now
14 April, 2018 07 June, 2018 Contact Us Available Book Now
21 April, 2018 14 June, 2018 Contact Us Available Book Now
28 April, 2018 21 June, 2018 Contact Us Available Book Now
07 May, 2018 30 June, 2018 Contact Us Available Book Now
14 May, 2018 07 July, 2018 Contact Us Available Book Now
21 May, 2018 14 July, 2018 Contact Us Available Book Now
28 May, 2018 21 July, 2018 Contact Us Available Book Now
07 June, 2018 31 July, 2018 Contact Us Available Book Now
14 June, 2018 07 August, 2018 Contact Us Available Book Now
21 June, 2018 14 August, 2018 Contact Us Available Book Now
28 June, 2018 21 August, 2018 Contact Us Available Book Now
21 August, 2018 14 October, 2018 Contact Us Available Book Now
trip map